Matthew’s reluctance to engage with the press and 110% commitment to his vineyards and cellar – leaving little time for promotional work – have only added to the mystique that’s surrounded Cerbaiona since it was established by former Alitalia pilot Diego Molinari in 1977. But the principal reason for all the chatter is the quality of the wines being made today by Matthew and his team.

The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino from Cerbaiona, released earlier this year, is among the finest wines we’ve tasted in 2024 – an ethereal, complex yet seamless Sangiovese that more than held its own alongside the 100 Point 2010 Brunello (made during Molinari’s tenure). We described the 2019 Brunello (£130 per bottle IB) as Matthew’s most accomplished Brunello to date, and the same applies to his 2022 Rosso di Montalcino. As Matthew puts it, ‘This is finally the quality level of Rosso di Montalcino I have been aiming for.’

Cerbaiona’s 2022 Rosso, offered for the first time in the UK today, is a concentrated, age-worthy Rosso, but – like all Matthew’s wines – bright and uninhibited, with a real sense of energy. It’s made only from estate fruit, but from the “lesser” parts of the vineyard which still occupy some of the finest terroir in the Brunello DOCG!

Matthew rails against the Consorzio’s minimum ageing requirement for Brunello of four years, including two in oak, prior to release, but with his Rosso (a minimum ten months, with no stipulation on the type of vessel), he can do more or less as he pleases. The 2022 was raised for a little over a year, primarily in concrete; perfect, Matthew finds, for rounding out Sangiovese’s rustic tannins without sacrificing any freshness.

L’articolo originale dell’8 novembre 2024 compariva sul sito di Stannary Wine, oggi non più disponibile.